|
Obedience Training
Program /
Boarding info
/
Training request /
Training Videos
-
Three week course
-
Owner training included
There
are a couple of routes to take here.
You can send
them for training, or train them yourselves.
You
can train them as a gun dog for serious hunting, or as a family
pet with a few simple commands.
You can
customize your own program. Lab Pups recommends a great book called
WATER
DOG by Richard A. Wolters.
Lab
puppy Training Tips
Walking
your puppy or adult dog should be an enjoyable experience. When
you walk, the dog should be right by your side making sure you are
not over extended. If you dog or puppy constantly pulls ahead, here
are 3 tips you can use to cure 'constant pullers'.
Tip
1:
Using
a training collar can dramatically curb constant pullers.
The use of the collar is very important. After adjusting the collar
and making sure it is securely fastened, try walking the dog in
a strait line. You can pull up slightly to test it out. When first
using a training collar on your dog, he/she may have an adjustment
period. I like to walk at a normal pace in a strait line, the dog
should be by your side, with his/her eye horizontal with your knee.
Remember, be gentle but firm. When you feel you have the hang of
it, try some circles and turns. Walking should be a whole lot easier
from now on. Make sure to practice using the normal collar as well,
you don't want your dog thinking he/she can get away with not being
behaved. Also practice walking both sides, I find a dog that has
been trained to walk solely on the right will have a harder time
on the left.
Tip
2:
In
this tip I would like to illustrate one of my most helpful training
aids. The 'visual line training'. Normally when you
are teaching a dog/puppy to heel, they have to establish their own
DNE (Do not exceed) line, formed by your actions. When you have
working with the training collar, and the dog still pulls ahead,
this method you are about to learn will stop walk-a-heads all together.
You can start by using the training collar (preferred) or the normal
leather or nylon collar. You need a longer (about 6 foot) leash.
As you walk (start out on the side you are most comfortable with)
what you want to do is figure out the DNE Line and make your dog
adhere to it by swinging the leash in front of his/her nose. I usually
like to swing it in a circle right in front of this imaginary line
I established. If your dog pulls ahead, the leash will bop him/her
in the nose, causing an instant slow down. Keep this in mind, some
dogs are more tolerant and may take a little bit of a faster swing
to deter them. After you swing the leash a few revolutions,
slow it down and gentle swing the leash in front of their nose.
If you dog gets the idea, you can just be ready to correct if need
be. A good substitute for the leash is a small twig or stick that
you can wave in front of them, and be they cross the line, and gentle
tap on the nose should remind them or cause them to pull back.
Tip
3:
Once
you have worked with your dog on the training collar, and/or the
visual line training , and your dog is pretty proficient at heeling.
The next step is to try them off-leash. This will be by 'voice
command'. Starting right with a dog/puppy from scratch, you
may never have to worry about them being a "flight problem".
Running off or staying just out of arms length is a signal of improper
training. A dog that is truly obedient, will be responsive
to your voice. He/she will come when called, sit on command, and
stay until told otherwise. (Note: this may take patients
and time to achieve).
First
you want to start off leash training in a controlled environment.
A fenced yard works the best. Here is a list of some items you will
need.
-
30
foot lead
-
training
collar
-
6
foot leash
-
3
foot training wand
The
first training I like to do with the dog are the basics while on
the leash. Get them warmed up with heeling, sitting, staying and
coming, all while still on the leash. When you are ready, get the
pup to sit and stay, while you attach the 30 foot lead on him/her.
I will take the lead and the dog, get him/her to heel till I get
to a post or tree, I will take the loose end of the lead and go
around the back of the tree (Note: Make sure you can pull the rope
back and forth easily). Once I have everything setup, I will get
the dog to sit and stay. As I back up, I will give them a visual
'stop sign' hand (usually my right) while keeping tension on the
lead in my left hand. The idea is to teach a dog to stay and enforce
it when you are not right there beside him/her. The dog may get
up when I reach that magic line, I will try out the voice command
first by telling him/her to sit. If the dog does not sit, I will
see if I can just close some distance and still get them to sit
with my voice, until I am right up on them, I will push their backside
down and repeat the command. You want to achieve 5-10 stays with
a noticeable increase in sit time. When you are ready to call them,
you can just let the other end of the lead go. In some case the
dog my not want to come, or may want to veer off to one side or
the other. Once you have the dog staying on their own, you can practice
coming straight to you by not looping the lead on the tree and pulling
the dog to you when you give the come command. After you achieve
this bit of training, you are ready to move on to off leash walking.
This is pretty simple, you will start by walking your dog with the
leash on, and somewhere in walking you can remove the leash, I wouldn't
stop, I would try to un latch the leash while walking. Try to make
it un-noticeable. In my right hand I would be carrying a little
stick or something I can wave in front of their nose (if they try
to advance past you). The dog should also have the training collar on, as
you would be able to reach down and pull up on the collar if the
dog lagged behind or wondered too far in front. Try practicing these
tips, as this will allow you to have a much more enjoyable
relationship with your Lab.
|